If you have been using a clothes iron for transferring your Press-n-Peel Blue (or any photo paper, etc.) like I have, throw it away (or give it back to your wife / mom), and get a laminator. All my life was a lie! I never managed to get such perfect transfers with a clothes iron, this is a miracle! I didn’t need to hack the laminator for more heat or more space for the board. The 1.6mm copper clad went through the rollers just fine. I fed it about 10 times (just to make sure) to the machine from different sides and edges, while it was at its hottest setting.
I got this laminator for about $30. Well worth it!
No retouch necessary this time :)
I have neglected this blog for a long time. Been dealing with multiple projects, and a divorce. Now I feel reborn. More to come soon…
I recently got a bandsaw, to be able to cut stock for general use and big steel square tubings for the future DIY lathe stand quickly. So, I got an Optimum S 122 G (which was within my price / performance range). I’m not even going to start about the problems I had while buying it (welcome to Turkey, where no one gives a shit about customers post-sale).
This one looked suitable for my needs.
This video had all the help I needed to be able to align the saw blade. Ghostses even kindly responded my question in detail. Yet, something was wrong, and I couldn’t get decent cuts for the life of me.
At the end of each cut, I kept finding the one side of the blade making an angle from the stock, while the other side was square (and when on rest, the blade was dead square to the vise, I used parallel bars and an angle ruler). I kept getting cuts with a vertical angle, with more material at the bottom.
This was always what I had. One side of the blade at angle.
10mm silver steel after a bad cut.
I soon realized that, when I pushed the main saw part when it was all the way down, the hinge shaft was actually moving about 1mm up and right in one of its holes (also moving the blade away from stock). All was good when it was all the way up, due to weight on that part pushing the shaft down. Right after that, I still wanted to try and cut some 60 mm x 60 mm box tubing with 3mm wall thickness for the lathe stand, and I broke the blade, probably due to excess speed. I left the shop for a while not to stress anymore over it.
So, I came back after an hour or so and disassembled the saw to be able to reach the angle plate on the saw stand with no fear, since dealing with machines is easier than dealing with shifty sellers here.
I hung up the main body where my punching bag used to be, since my back (thanks to lumbar disc herniation) can no longer handle such weights. Gone are the days when I could lift 50kg boxes.
A closer look at the main wheel assembly.
I drilled and tapped M6 screw holes in both base plates of the hinge right above the gap (piece of cake on this cheap cast iron), screwed in cone point setscrews (better angular pressure for what I needed) and stabilized them with non-permanent Loctite clone. The resulting motion was very smooth.
Drilling this porous cast iron was very easy with the good quality bits I recently got.
Using the milling machine as a guide for the tap wrench. The angle looks wrong, but it’s due to lens curve.
The cast iron was so soft, it was a piece of cake to tap it with this HSS tap. Looks crooked again. See how the hole looks warped? Also see how they failed to center the drill at first attempt…
The resulting hole was rather nice and functional.
I first cleaned the holes from grease with brake pad cleaner, then applied Loctite clone to stabilize the setscrews.
Testing the first hole with a longer cone point setscrew.
I left it to cure overnight, after wiping off the excess.
Eventually, I ordered two 14 TPI blades and one 24 TPI blade yesterday. The saw will be sitting in the shop until I receive them. Projects on pause as well. I also removed, cleaned, and re-mounted the lathe chuck. The runout is now down to 0.01 mm.
I finally got a lathe! I have been wanting to get one for so many years, but I got a milling machine first, also useful as a drill press. They didn’t have a DC Vario in stock. I wanted it because it had a pot + pwm driven 1.1kW universal motor on it (I was doubting its power though), later on I realized ac induction motors have a higher power factor (and no brushes!), and this 750W motor is really powerful. I can always get an even more powerful AC motor for real cheap, too. Although I’ve got some amateur workshop experience, I’m a noob when it comes to the lathe. I’ve read a bunch on it in the past, and watched many videos, but practice is something else. Here’s a video of my first cuts on 6013 aluminium and silver steel (1.2210), using 10mm brazed carbide tools. The tail stock still needs to be aligned (sideways done perfectly… now the height… but it’s 0.125 mm high?), the chuck is also 0.06 mm off. The video has the necessary explanations in the comments section. No, I can neither find, nor afford a true German, American, Japanese, or British lathe.
I need a lathe stand!
Here’s how I measured the chuck and the tailstock alignment, individually and in sync. They were at (negative) max at the same spot (I can’t guarantee that the regular indicator was right above the center, but the chuck’s runout last a bit longer, probably due to indicator sensitivity difference?), which tells me the chuck’s runout adds to the tailstock’s. When the chuck is lowest, the tailstock’s dead center is highest. So the chuck is 0.06 mm off, and the tailstock is actually 0.065 mm off. I need to go down to 0.01 mm!
Both indicators are reset when the DTI’s (we call it a run out indicator in Turkish, the other one is just an indicator) body is pointing up.
Both indicators are at (negative) max. Zoom in for the mirror.
Even though this a German lathe made in China, this makes me feel better about it. Smaller models don’t have this.
I’ve been working on (and off) a mini table saw and an arcade console in the past couple of months, but mostly being lazy. I’ve also been lazy with the blog, but the projects are coming soon. I need to cleanup the workshop first. I also started stocking up some metal for future projects. Here are some 6013 aluminium, silver steel, and regular steel (the 2mm bunch. I thought ordered 1m and got 1kg. It was my mistake, the price was so good) rods and a package of brass, 7075 aluminium, and polyamide rods and bars from my friend Murat in İzmir.
More on the way 😉 Find the cup holder…
Some parts I turned later on for a test. The 5.98 mm stainless steel rod slides smoothly, without much play in the aluminium part, drilled and reamed to 6.00 mm (not sure, can’t measure correctly). The 6.00 mm shaft I made from silver steel is a tight fit for this hole.
A sliding fit.
A tight fit.
I also got a sine vise last month. It’s my little treasure
Finally I can cut angles. 0.005 mm tolerance in 100mm.
Sine vise, new digital caliper with ABS function, and a cheap DTI from China.
Update: As these two sources indicate, it’s ok for the tailstock to be 2-3 thousandths (damn imperial) high above the headstock’s center, which is 0.0508 – 0.0762 mm. They make them that way, so it levels itself when its bottom wears off over time, or the weight of the workpiece pulls it down a bit. There’s also some discussion about indicator sagging due to weight.
Last week, I returned from a 12 day survey, which was at Black Sea. And I’ve also been working on a board for work recently. Since we have a 50Mhz 2-channel oscilloscope with 16-channel logic analyzer on the boat, it was pretty fun to work on the board there.
On the boat. Running Python test code on PyCharm, as the scope shows me the zeros and ones.
But eventually I came back home, and all I have is a 25Mhz 2-channel oscilloscope and a USBee AX Pro clone logic analyzer from China. The LA works good with the original software, but it’s Windoze only, and it’s not very stable. So I found Pulseview.
I’m not going to show you how to install it on your box, since you can find the instructions for every OS here. All I needed was libsigrok, libsigrokdecode, and pulseview, so I installed them from the git repos. It’s an awesome program, but I wish it would let me save screenshots of the visuals (scrot is good enough for now), and also let me save the setup for later use (there’s a save session option and it works without loading the decoders, yet I can’t reaccess the device after opening the saved session). It sucks to setup and rename every channel, and decoder every time. Anyway, here are two screenshots.
Trilyonlar kazanan futbolculardan bu ülkede alınan vergi %15, isveç’te %59.5! Diğer yandan AMK adlı bomboş bir gazetenin reklamı, “Hangi futbolcu kaç milyona transfer oluyor, sadece 25 kuruşa gör!”. Allah belanızı versin… size para verenlerin de Allah belasını versin…
Böyle boklara vakit harcamak yerine, oturun da ülke için bir şeyler üretin. Ama sizde ne arar böyle yürek? En kolay para nerde var, hemen oraya koşun. Dostlarınızı bile kazıklayın üç kuruş için. Sonra da sanki trafik yokmuş gibi özel araçlarınıza binin, bok varmış gibi gezin. Cep telefonlarınıza bakarak mezarınıza doğru yürümeye devam edin…
Last week, a friend of mine came to me with a problem that his dentist friend was having. This dentist friend uses a teeth whitening machine, which allows for 4 x 15 minute sessions when you insert a small PCB, with a small IC on it, in the machine. After these 4 sessions, he needs to purchase a new card, which costs a lot (at least in this country).
2D 1002 my ass…
The IC on the little PCB is labeled 2D 1002 013B1, whose datasheet is nonexistent on the Net. After hours of Google’ing, and Google Translating Russian, Slovenian, German, Polish, and Czech sites for information, I realized that no one had a solution. One Russian site stated that it was a DS2430, which was wrong (DS2430 has one 256 bit memory page, and DS2431 has 4 x 256 bit memory pages – different addressing modes helped me see the difference), but it got me started. With only two active pins connected to the IC, 1-wire communication was obvious.
My Bus Pirate was on my desk for the rescue, and this Hackaday post also provided great help. I used a 1K resistor to pull up the MOSI line, since BP Wiki recommends a value below 2K for parasitic power devices. I got the 5V power from my Bus Pirate by entering W at the prompt, after entering m and 2 to enter 1-wire mode. I use screen /dev/ttyUSB0115200 for accessing the Bus Pirate console. By the way, the 1-wire family code you get when you read the ROM with a Bus Pirate 1-wire macro (you can list them with (0)) is 0xAD, which is also nowhere to be found on the Net. You can refer to the OWFS web site for future uses.
So glad to have a Bus Pirate v3.b. That red croc clip is there to hold the resistor in place.
My first writing attempts failed miserably. Later on, when I finally dumped the whole EEPROM array with (85)(1) 0xf0 0x00 0x00 r:144 (thanks to the DS2431 datasheet), and observed the contents, I realized that the memory pages were all set to EPROM mode, which ANDs the incoming data with its contents (and they were all 0x00, except for a few).
The first two bytes of the last memory page was filled with some values, also the last 8 bytes here contained other information, such as a copy of the protect control bytes, manufacturer ID, etc. which actually reside in the last 2 bytes of the EEPROM (total EEPROM array is 18 x 8 = 144 bytes, 128 is reserved for user data). And I managed to overwrite them all with zeros.
Here’s the BP console with the necessary steps to read the 1-wire EEPROM.
Here‘s a text file containing the EEPROM data, before I altered it. The output is from the Bus Pirate console, with my comments and extra information added.
So, the next step is to get an unused card and observe the data in it, then get a fresh DS2431 and write it the same way, and give it a try on the machine. We’ll see how it turns out this week.
Update: After seeing a couple hacks for sale on ebay and such, I realized this was not a matter of just rewriting the EEPROM. People used MCU’s, probably to emulate the EEPROM anyway they liked. So, I would need an actual working machine to tap the com and see what’s really going on. Naaah, screw it…