As I decided to replace the metal brackets for the motor mount, and didn’t have the proper parts, I worked on another project last week. I got some 1.5 mm stainless steel sheet today, though. I also got a new dial indicator, since Pamir knocked over and broke the one I got last night (It’s ok, it wasn’t no Mitutoyo anyway. I could have also turned the base magnet on to avoid it).
1.5 mm thick stainless steel sheet with 50 mm x 1000 mm size.
Stainless steel sheet cut to length and marked for the cuts. I sharpened the edge that won’t be used to test the material’s use as a blade. The results are tempting..
My new dial indicator (supposedly made in Japan, but too cheap to be), by my first sci-fi book in English, given to me by my father when I was about 12 or 13.
We were at the shop again with Pamir, yesterday. I had center drilled and drilled 64 6 mm holes in a 80 mm x 80 mm, 10 mm thick aluminum piece for this project last week (I need to turn this mill into a big CNC soon!), which includes many lasers. We had tried to cut this frame with the MF70 CNC, and failed.
Testing for size after drilling the first column. Nice fit.
64 holes drilled and countersunk using my new Noga Rotodrive NG1200.
I plan on epoxying the lasers ‘ adjustable lens parts to the frame , so I can change the laser diode parts easily, if they ever get fried. I got the lasers real cheap from a friend’s store.
5 mW laser with adjustable focus.
I was going to mill the sides of the frame square and even, but it was getting late, so I milled only one side, using drill bits to hold the side parallel to the holes.
Aligning the holes with the edges using two 6 mm drill bits. 10 mm 2-flute end mill can easily cut 0.5 mm at one pass.
Since the lens parts of the lasers are 5.4 mm long, and the frame I have made is 10 mm thick, I decided to face mill the block down yesterday, using my 50 mm face mill. Since it has its own Morse tapered cone, I had to remove the one I use with my drill chuck. Well, it was stuck. We hammered a long rod in it (thinner than the drawbar, hitting the bottom of the cone’s top hole with inner threads) from the top for a good while, and sprayed it with WD40, but it would not budge. We called it a day, and stopped working on stuff.
Today, after coming back from the hardware bazaar, I sprayed the cone with lighter gas for a couple of seconds to cool and shrink it quickly, and hammered the loosened drawbar a couple of time, and it finally came off!
Finally the Morse taper (holding the Röhm drill chuck) cone is out and laying along with the face mill, and the ER 25 collet chuck.
However, my mill is no longer functional until next week, since I found (again, after coming back from the hardware bazaar, on the other side of Istanbul. I could get them from there) today that the brushes of the mill’s motor were no more (it was real jumpy and weird yesterday, and I thought the motor control board was messed up). It had been jumpy for the past couple of months, as well, but it was never this unbearable. This afternoon it was not working at all, so I opened the plastic top, and saw black dust on the back of the motor. When I unscrewed the brushes, I realized that one was no more, and the other was really worn out and broken in half. I got this mill about 3 years ago, and checked the brushes only once. I guess I should check them every year or something.
Drawbar pulled out and laying beside the finished and broken brushes. The top of the motor is all black thanks to pulverized carbon.
Pulverized carbon all over the motor’s back.
Here’s the board I made a while ago, by the PIC development board I got in quantity. That board is for driving high power 7-segment LED’s. The sites listed below were useful for creating this driver and testing it all with a BusPirate V3. I also added some ideas and corrections of my own to the ones presented on these sites.
(I altered the circuit here to suit my needs)
(I got a comment here, which contributes to the text)
(This site was useful for a quick setup)
For BusPirate V3:
Set speed: 4. 1MHz (MAX7219 can handle up to 10MHz)
Clock polarity: 1. Idle low *default
Output clock edge: 2. Active to idle *default
Input sample phase: 1. Middle *default
CS: 2. /CS *default
Select output type: 2. Normal (H=3.3V, L=GND)
I also made a small PIC library for easy ASCII text handling (different from the ones above) with the 7-segment LED’s and the MAX 7219. I’ll have to write more code to be able to drive a 8 x 8 matrix in strange ways.
PIC development board with 18F252 (8 MHz Crystal) by the high power 7-segment LED driver board, which I won’t use for this project. The terminals on the right will be used on the new laser driver board.
Driver board with the big 7-segment LED displays.
I don’t know how many I got here, Ersin said a few more than 64.
I (copy) designed and made a card a while ago, to build a huge clock for my workshop, then I left it aside for later, since I still need to fix the displays mounted in their box. All I need to do is to finish the wiring from the displays to the control card and cleanup some black good from one display. Here’s the PCB prints in PSD and BMP format (PSD, BMP Top, BMP Bottom), in case you need to make one.
Coding on MPLAB using Hitech PIC C compiler. PICKİt2’s own software is more stable than MPLAB with my clone PicKit2. Yes, I still do PIC programming on Windows.
Testing the MAX7219 with BusPirate V3. This was the first time I really needed that tool.
Brightness adjusted right. These are the small displays.
I may just cut the side brackets for the boat’s motor mount tomorrow. No more milling work for a week